At the Pecos River in the town of Carlsbad, on October 17th, "Cave Rangers" celebrate the news, just received by cell phone, that work will resume tomorrow.
The American flags fly again, at the
visitor center at Carlsbad Caverns, and at the other 400 sites
managed by the National Park Service. Business resumed on October
18th, with the reopening of the federal government. The first guests
to come through the visitor center doors received a hug from the
chief ranger.
And for all the damage it has caused,
the shutdown has had at least one positive side-effect. We appreciate
National Parks all the more after having been locked out of them,
just as a man who was temporarily wheelchair-bound finds new joy and
exuberance in walking and running. Many are the ways in which people
restore their bodies and spirits in the National Parks, the
egalitarian landscapes which Ken Burns calls “America's Best
Idea.”
I have a special affinity for hiking to
the top of a mountain. Many are the summits I have scaled, in
National Parks, State Parks, and National Forests. Most recently,
Guadalupe Peak, at Guadalupe Mountains National Park (pictured below.) The highest
point in Texas, the trail makes a steep ascent, through mesquite
gulleys to piney forests, and finally to boulder fields with shrubs
and lichens, 3,000 feet above the starting point. The rolling planes
of Texas spread for countless miles below; earth and sky meld at the
horizon, inestimably far away. The wild landscape is interupted only
by the highway, and an increasing number of oil-wells.
For the Mescalero Apaches, Guadalupe
Peak is one of the four sacred mountains, and home to the mountain
gods, benevolent spirits who bestowed upon the people various gifts,
including the agave, the staff of life. (The agave or century plant
is an all-important source of sustenance in a harsh desert. The
Mescaleros use various parts of the plant to make food, soap,
medicine, clothing, sewing needles, the pointed tips of weapons, and
much more. When roasted, the plant's pulpy interior is said to taste a bit like a sweet potato.)
Many Native American tribes claim
sacred sites on mountains, all over North America. And the same phenomenon occurs on other continents. Religions across the world give special
significance to high places. In the Biblical story of Jesus, the
savior dies on a hill. On a summit, the earth and sky meet. It is the
liminal space where the terrestrial realm touches the ethereal.
We earthbound humans may not be able to
see the “big blue marble” of earth from space, like the
astronauts of the Apollo missions. But the view from atop a mountain
may be the closest we can come.
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