The above photo is from my 2009 return to Crater Lake, but the experience is similar today.
Quite unexpectedly, I am “back in
blue.” At the last minute, the management at Crater Lake National
Park invited me back, for the summer season at least. I will wear
the flat-hat again.
This park, this awe-inspiring lake,
this old-growth forest with its great depths of snow, has been a
powerful inspiration to me. I am here with the charge of providing
information, guidance, and inspiration to the visitors. I live in
the park as well as working here. Right now, a stream runs through
the snowy evergreen forest, just out my window. It is a temporary
flow, fed by snow, which melts at a healthy rate on a sunny day like today. Even in June, several feet of
snow cover the ground. Earlier, I debated whether it was safe to
walk in the woods without snowshoes. I concluded that it was. I am
told that last year, there was still eight feet of snow at this time,
and snowshoes were necessary.
When I return from my regimen of boat
tours and trolley tours and guided hikes and campfire presentations,
my “interpretive” work is still not finished. The landscape and
its plants, animals, and people have a way of getting deep into my
brain, becoming a sort of obsession. They populate my sketchbook and
my word-processor. From time to time, I produce something that needs
to be shared. And I am not the only park ranger who makes such
artistic endeavors. There are many of us, as I discovered when I
organized the first-ever (to my knowledge) Crater Lake staff art show in 2010. And yes, my collaborators and I have already begun plans
for a second staff art show, to take place sometime in late July or
early August. Details to be announced.
Back at the park, the first order of
business is training, which includes a reintroduction to the science.
New and returning seasonal staff must listen to many power point
presentations from researchers, concerning many aspects of our park's
life and earth science, and its management. I have learned much that
is new, much that has changed since last time. Our landscape and its
life forms face many dangers. Global warming may be the greatest
danger of all. It has already done considerable damage to some of our parks,
and if left unchecked, it will do much more. My comrade Ranger Brian Ettling has devoted himself to communicating about climate change and its solutions. I commend his efforts. The mitigation of global
warming requires a cooperative effort from all of us. And today is the best time to start.
Meanwhile, beneath the placid surface
of the lake, a war takes place. The combatants do not know that they
are in a war; each merely spends their day on a quest to fulfill
their own needs. But, collectively, one species pits itself against
another. I speak of the war between the brown crayfish and the
Mazama newt. In recent years, park researchers have gathered
substantial evidence to support the thesis that the crayfish are an
invasive species, introduced by people. Slowly but surely, they
colonize suitable habitats in the lake. And where they go, the newts
disappear. These are the results of recent surveys of crayfish and
other aquatic life. And a (very tiny) bit of the data was collected
by yours truly!
And so I will share my story from my
day on the lake research boat in August 2009. Originally, I sent the
below narrative by email to some family, friends, and coworkers....
“I
spent a day with the lake research crew. By pure chance, I
caught them at a good time. Time for the annual
snorkel-survey. We donned the 'body armor' necessary to survive
an extended exploration of Crater Lake: a “woolly” fleece suit as
underlayer. Atop it, a dry suit. Also drysuit gloves,
boots, balaclava. Finally, goggles and a snorkel. We drove
a little boat around the lake, and surveyed from the Pallisades to
Skell Channell. At each survey point, three of us would jump
from the boat. We swam or crawled along, or floated as
the drysuit traps air. We visually scanned the lake-bottom, and
overturned rocks as we went. Even through the armor, it was
cold. We recorded the steepness of each site, the general size
of the rocks, and any living things seen. We found many snails,
caddis-fly larvae, aquatic beetles, and some rainbow trout and
kokanee salmon. We found moss at one stop (most of the moss
grows much deeper). We found crayfish, some quite large.
They jetted away when we disturbed their rock shelters.
They spread their claws, ready to defend when they felt cornered.
We found newts. The young newts looked like brown worms, the
adults like newts, brown with light spots. We found a high
concentration of crayfish around Cleetwood trail (the path to the
lakeshore), and their range extended a good few miles east to the
Pallisades. West of Cleetwood from Llao rock to Skell Channell,
the crayfish weren't found, but the newts were. We never found
crayfish and newts in the same place. Generally, our survey had
similar results to the previous. Dense populations of crayfish
around Cleetwood Cove, and their range is slowly expanding. A
density of crayfish has also been found around Wizard Island.
All this supports the theory that crayfish are an introduced species,
especially considering that the entire perimeter of the lake provides
suitable habitat. And where crayfish go, newts disappear: maybe
the crustaceans eat the amphibians, or maybe they outcompete. I
asked a research technician what would happen if the crayfish are
conclusively demonstrated to be foreign invaders. He said
“Absolutley nothing. There's millions of them.” Like
the nonnative fish, there is no practical way to remove them, and so
the crayfish study, like much of science, is purely for knowledge.”
....
As for the last part of my narrative, I may have jumped to
conclusions too quickly. The lake researchers are developing plans
for how to control the crayfish invasion, at least in some parts of
the lake.
We still do not know exactly why the
crayfish obliterate the newts. Experiments to find out are under
way.
I became inspired to give artistic
interpretation to the crayfish domination. I opened my sketchbook,
took out my pencils and brushes and ink, and produced an image.....
Good fortune to the newts. I hope that
you find a way to survive.
In other news, my Crater Lake-inspired
comics The Raven and the Crayfish and Avian Tales are now available on Etsy!
Excelsior--!
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